This article by Fleuriste Atropa Belladonna, a Montreal florist, explains the basics of Poinsettia Care and how to keep this classic thriving for the Holidays, and includes light, temperature, watering, humidity, etc.

The poinsettia may be the unofficial flower of winter, but beneath its festive glow is a warm-weather beauty from Mexico that simply wants one thing: steady comfort. Treat it kindly, keep its roots just right, and this Euphorbia will reward you with brilliant colour all season long. Here’s how to keep yours happy with a few simple steps.

How to Care for a Poinsettia

1. Light: Bright, Indirect & Consistent

Poinsettias keep their colour best with plenty of bright, indirect light. A spot near a window (without drafts) helps the bracts stay vibrant longer.

• Avoid dark corners — low light encourages leaf drop.
• Direct harsh sun isn’t ideal either; choose filtered light; unless if you’re a fellow Montrealer, you can probably get away with direct sun, in my experience the sun is weak enough up here at this time of year.

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2. Temperature: 15–21°C (60–70°F)

Poinsettias love stable temperatures.

• Keep them in the 15–21°C (60-70°F) sweet spot.
• Avoid cold drafts, open doors, and heat vents — they’re sensitive.
• Never buy a plant displayed outside in winter; it may already be cold-damaged.
• Always ensure the plant is well wrapped during transport, especially in Montréal winters.

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3. Watering: Moist, Not Soggy

This is the part most people get wrong.

• Keep the compost moderately moist.
• Do not let it fully dry out — they dislike drought.
• Do not let it sit in water — they dislike soggy roots even more.
• Remove decorative foil when watering so excess water can escape.

Pro tip:
Use our weight trick

Lift the pot before and after watering to learn its “light” and “heavy” states. This becomes the easiest way to know when your poinsettia truly needs water.

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4. Humidity: Higher Is Better

As a tropical species, poinsettias appreciate moist air.

• A nearby humidifier or a pebble tray works well.
• Avoid placing the plant close to radiators or fireplaces.

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5. Final Checks

Leaf Drop

Usually caused by:

• Overwatering
• The room being too cold
• Insufficient light

Crispy Leaves or Colour Fading

• Too dry, too hot, or drafts
• Check humidity, watering, and location

Droopy Appearance

• Soil got too dry at some point
• Water thoroughly once, then monitor with the weight method

Where Poinsettias Come From

• Origin: Mexico
• Botanical Genus: Euphorbia
• Related to many succulent-like species and known for its colourful bracts rather than petals.

Final Notes

Keep it warm, keep it bright, keep it consistently hydrated, and your poinsettia will glow beautifully through the holidays. With steady care, many people even keep theirs into spring and summer.

Further Reading:
For growers, researchers, or anyone curious about how professionals manage poinsettia health, Purdue plant pathologist Dr. Janna Beckerman offers a deeper look at poinsettia protection and root health in this GPN article. Likewise, if you want a deeper look at the Holiday, read our overview on Christmas plants and traditions. Lastly, if you’re also looking for Cyclamen tips, another common Holiday gift, read about Cyclamen plant care.

This article by Fleuriste Atropa Belladonna, a Montreal florist, explains how to care for Peace Lily (spathiphyllum), from soil and fertiliser, to light and watering, humidity and troubleshooting.

Soil

Soil requirements: All purpose or tropical mix soil. It’s always preferably to be planted in a pot that drains. If you’re displaying it in a non-drain decorative pot, not worries, just keep the plant in it’s planter pot, so that you can get rid of any water that drains into the decorative one.

Fertiliser

A balanced fertilizer is ideal, such as a 5-5-5 or 10-10-10. Peace lilies don’t require a lot of feeding, how much will depend on the kind of fertilizer you are using; but if it is water soluble feeding it once every three months should be fine, where as slow release fertilizers can be applied less often, twice a year during fall and Spring

Sun/Lighting

Bright indirect light, here in Montreal they can take the morning sunlight (anything that hits them before 11am).

Watering

It’s important to keep the soil is ideally kept moist, but not soaking. Water your plant when the soil is somewhat moist (or a medium to light weight), you should feel your plant become heavy. Don’t water if it is wet, saturated, and heavy. I recommend watering your plant over a sink and allowing the water to freely drain away. Never keep you plants sitting in water, though peace lilies are one of the more forgiving plants when it comes to this, it can cause root rot! Add water until it begins to run out of the drain wholes, let it drip dry before replacing it it’s deco. pot or tray.

Humidity & Temperature

Typically Peace lilies prefer not to go below 21 degrees Celsius. They enjoy humidity, so if you can lightly mist them once every few days they will do well. If conditions are already humid, this is not recommended as if can cause molding.

Dead leaves & Flowers

You can trim away yellow or brown leaves. As for browned flowers, you can cut them near where they exit the leaf, the flower stem that is left will eventually dry up all the way down to the base, and you will eventually be able pull it loose from the leaf, but this may take several days or weeks.

Drooping / Yellowing Leaves

Don’t panic, and don’t act before you access the situation. Drooping leaves are probably an indication that your plant is under watered; if you pick it up and it’s very light, you have confirmation, go water your plant!

After being underwatered, some leaves may turn Yellow! Has your plant been under watered lately? Yes, then it’s just natural, and there’s nothing more to do. Do not run to water it again, because likewise yellow leave can be… from over watering! If your plant did not go through a drought, check, is it heavy? Is it drowning in water? Well it’s time to drain the pot – if its been like that for a while, you may have to change the soil.

Dogs & Cats

Spathiphyllum is toxic to both.

Nasa Study

The study with the complete list of recommended plants can be view here as PDF

Likewise, Nasa’s overview of the findings can be found here

Sansevieria | Snake Plant

How to care for Snake plants by Fleuriste Atropa Belladonna, a Montreal florist. We explain sansevieria’s survival needs including: light, watering, soil and pet-safety tips.

Also Known as Mother-in-Law’s Tongue, Saint-George’s Sword, Devil’s Tongue, Jinn’s Tongue, ad More.

There is no shortage of common names for this succulent. It is among one of the recommended indoor plants, by NASA study in which you can find all the listed plants; likewise they give a brief overview of their findings in this article: Interior Landscape Plants for Indoor Air Pollution Abatement. It ‘s particularly good at purifying air from toxins such as formaldehyde, xylene, toluene, and nitrogen oxides. Another neat fact is that this plant creates oxygen at nighttime instead of during the day; for this reason some like to place these in their bedroom.

Soil

Though some note that these plants can handle tropical soil, and even less water, it is not ideal for the plants. It is important that they should be in well drained soil, a cactus/succulent is best.

Fertiliser

You can fertilize using a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20 once in the spring and once in the summer, or with a weaker mix such as 5-5-5 once a month through out the spring/summer during the growing season.

Sun/Lighting

They will thrive in moderate to bright indirect light. However in my Montreal experience, my snake plants are in full direct sun in my south facing window at the height of the afternoon. I mention Montreal, because we are further north, this may not be suitable for places closer to the equator. They can survive in low natural light, or artificial light, but they won’t be thriving.

Watering

Soil should be allowed to dry between watering, this goes doubly when experiencing low light conditions. They also require less water during the winter. When watered, you should put enough to run out from the bottom, and then spill the excess.

Cats & Dogs

toxic to both

This article by Fleuriste Atropa Belladonna, a Montreal florist, explains how to care for Cyclamen, from light and temperature, to water and soil. Enjoy these plants that are native to the Mediterranean and North Africa by following our bonus tips.

How Do I Care for My Cyclamen?

We rank this plant care level: Average

Cyclamen Basics for Best Results:

1. Light: Place your cyclamen in a nice spot that gets some natural light from a window. You don’t want them to be in full sun as this is too hot for them and can burn the plant. They will be happy to be in the shade for the better part of the day, but will need some filtered light to continue flowering.
   Bonus: If you’re in Montreal, our North positioning help us. The sun isn’t too intense if you’re exposing your plant to a couple of hours of morning sunlight. They do very well on my North East facing balcony. Don’t forget, your phone has a compass if you’re not sure where your window or outdoor space is facing.
2. Temperature: Keep your cyclamen positioned out of drafts, heat from fireplaces, heaters, and air conditioning. It prefers a more temperate area that is dry and away from moisture. Bathrooms are not an appropriate room for a cyclamen as the air is too humid. We would also advise against a very hot room, where the plant is subject to frequent changes in temperature.
3. Water: Water your cyclamen once every week, and less frequently in Winter (roughly every ten days). It should stay moist but not wet. If the flowers are looking a little droopy, it’s good indication of when they are feeling a bit thirsty is. They should perk up once watered if this happens. Likewise, you could use our weight watering guide, to help you water more reliably. Your plant should feel medium-light before watering. Water it so it feels a medium to heavy weight. Do not water log the soil.

Long Term Cyclamen Care:

• Trimming: Frequently check your cyclamen for tired flowers. If a flower discolours or is drooping remove it from the plant; simply by plucking from the base of the stem. This will encourage the plant to continue flowering as it no longer needs to provide energy to the dying flower.
• Transplanting: Should the cyclamen look like it’s outgrowing its pot, do transplant them in something a little larger; that was a LITTLE larger, it’s rarely a good thing to transplant any plant into a much larger pot than they’re currently in. See soil reference below.
• Fertiliser: Your can give your cyclamen a balanced fertiliser like 5-5-5, once every 2-3 weeks, or dilute a stronger concentration of the same ratio and feed less often. During blooming period you would switch to a 5-10-5, and as before, reducing and diluting if you have a stronger bottle dose. Confused about plant fertilisers, I put together some Plant Fertiliser Basics: A quick guide to understanding ratios & dosage.
• Sleep: They typically go dormant in the spring. You can place them somewhere cool and let the plant’s corm dry out. Repot it into potting mix, and resume feeding midsummer. At which point you can start watering and fertilising again. They naturally bloom over the winter. However, commercially you can find them at unusual times of the year, so they may have a different rhythm at first; but nature tends to self correct.

Soil | Yes, It gets it’s own section:

Cyclamen soil will need these key features:

• Good drainage: to avoid soggy roots
• Light texture: to allow air to circulate
• Slightly acidic pH: around 6.0 to 7.0
• Nutrient-rich: but not heavy or dense

This is their Ideal mix, made in equal parts:

• High-quality potting soil (preferably peat-based)
• Perlite or coarse sand (to improve drainage)
• Compost or well-rotted leaf mold (for nutrients and moisture retention)

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Hack Version: Easy DIY Cyclamen Soil Mix🛠️

It can be hard to find specialty components like perlite or leaf mold, so you can also try this:

• Use regular potting soil (preferably indoor or general-purpose)
• Mix in a handful of coarse sand or even small aquarium gravel to help drainage
• Add a bit of coconut coir or shredded sphagnum moss for moisture balance

Tip: Avoid heavy garden soil or clay, as it holds too much water and can suffocate roots.

Bonus Tips

•  Outdoors: Your cyclamens will love a vacation outside every now and then. Once or twice a week, to an undercover area protected from frost and drafts. Assuming night time temperatures are not dropping below 10 Celsius (50 Fahrenheit).
• Yellowing Leaves: Should the leaves yellow on your cyclamen try placing them in a cool area for the night, it may be too hot where they’re hanging out. Likewise, if the cyclamen dried out too much, yellow leaves will follow.
• Drooping Leaves: This can be tricky, so a little attention will go a long way. If the leaves are drooping, lift the plant, is it very light? The your plant is probably thirsty. If only some leaves or flowers are droopy, check to see, is it just an older flower dying? A broken leaf? Snip, snip. Lastly if the plant is rather medium to heavy in weight, at some point the plant was probably over watered; especially if you find mushy stems throughout.

With attentive care they are a beautiful indoor plant and relatively easy to look after if you understand what the plant needs. If you’re having trouble with planting and fertilising your plant, we definitely recommend heading to your local nursery to have a chat with a horticulturist and to have a look at what products they have to help your cyclamen thrive.

Otherwise, enjoy your cyclamen!

Plant Fertiliser Basics: A Quick Guide to Understanding Ratios & Dosage. Why feed your plants? Like water and light, they need food to thrive. by Fleuriste Atropa Belladonna A Montreal Florist.

🧪What Does it Mean?

Fertiliser labels like 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 refer to the N-P-K ratio — that’s Nitrogen (leaf growth), Phosphorus (roots & blooms), and Potassium (overall strength & resilience).

A ratio like 5-5-5 means these nutrients are balanced — each in equal proportion. If you’re looking for 5-5-5 but can only find 10-10-10, that works too: the ratio is the same. Similarly, if you’re after 5-10-5 and find 15-30-15, it’s still the same ratio — just a stronger concentration.

So, what’s the difference between 5-5-5 and 10-10-10, if they’re “the same”? Strength is the difference. The number itself indicates the percentage that mineral represents in the fertiliser:

• 5 Nitrogen = 5%
• 10 Nitrogen= 10%
• 30 Nitrogen= 30%

So, 5-5-5 vs 10-10-10 is double the nutrients. For your average plant parent, stronger concentrations are not necessary. Dilution is your friend; especially with sensitive indoor plants, that unlike plants growing outside in the ground of Mother Earth, have no means of getting rid of the excess. Less is more.

💡 Important Tip:

If you can only find a stronger blend like 20-20-20, fear not, there is a way to prevent overwhelming your houseplants. You can safely halve both the dose and the frequency recommended on the packaging. A light touch goes a long way — overfeeding often does more harm than good.

Example: 15-15-15 or 20-20-20 may say for indoor plants 8 drops in a litre of water, 1-2x per month; only add 4 drops to the litre and only fertilise 1x every 2 months.

Otherwise, if you can find a lower concentration, for gentle, ongoing care, a low-dose mix (like 5-5-5 every 2 weeks or 10-10-10 1x/month) is usually more than enough.